What is a Smart Home?

Smart Home is the term commonly used to define a residence that uses a Home Controller to integrate the residence's various home automation systems. The most popular Home Controllers are those that are connected to a Windows based PC during programming only, and are then left to perform the home control duties on a stand-alone basis. Integrating the home systems allows them to communicate with one another through the home controller, thereby enabling single button and voice control of the various home systems simultaneously, in preprogrammed scenarios or operating modes.

For example, a scenario such as I'm Home could be triggered by pressing one button on a Keychain Remote from your vehicle as you approach the driveway. The Home Controller receives the Keychain Remote command triggering a scenario, preprogrammed and stored in the home controller. The celestial clock in the controller knows that it is 8 pm and past sunset, in your geographical location, therefore starting the scenario by sequentially turning on the lighting in the driveway, garage entry, walkway, hallway, and kitchen. It then disarms the security system, opens the garage door, unlocks the interior garage entry door, adjusts the thermostat(s) to a preset home position, and turns on the whole-house audio system. The home control processor is essentially the Hub of the home systems network, as shown in the Stargate example below. The Home Control Processor is programmed to customer specific requirements to initiate sequential automatic operation of the home systems, in response to "one button" commands from a system controller, based on the situation and or time.

Other time saving scenarios such as "Party Time", "Away", "Good Night" etc. involving several home systems can be activated by phone, voice, and remotes as desired. A home systems status check is also a convenient feature to add to the "Good Night" scenario. In addition to automatically turning off all lights and adjusting the thermostats, the system will also provide an audio report indicating the status of the security system by zone, the temperature in each zone, the position of the garage doors, and the "wakeup" times selected.

PC Networks PC Networks are quickly becoming an essential element of today's Smart Homes. A Windows 98 release2 PC Network allows all of the family PCs to share resources including one connection, and one account to the Internet, simultaneously. This is also convenient for smart home system upgrades, since much of the home automation and home systems equipment is PC programmable and equipment manufacturers now provide the software upgrades via the Internet. The Internet connection will increasingly play a major role in the operation and monitoring of our homes.

Plan Your Own Smart Home System

Prewire Planning Guide

The following is an overview of the system features that can be included in our Smart Home Systems. The pre-wire plan should be included in all new construction.

Not so long ago, the majority of homes were wired with little more than the AC electrical powerlines, a few phone lines, and a few TV cables. Times have changed. Electrical and security system contractors routinely install low voltage communication cabling for a wide range of smart home systems. Of course, the new technology does still, for the most part, require connection to the same old AC powerline; but some unique and highly specific requirements must also be met.

The term 'prewiring' refers to the installation of cables and wires during a new home's construction. It includes the AC electrical wiring, as well as the low voltage, home systems cabling. The book, Structured Wiring Design Manual, by Robert N. Bucceri, is an excellent source of information for prewiring, and will also introduce you to the smart home systems for which the prewiring is installed.

If you're considering opting out of prewiring based on the wide availability of wireless devices today, remember that, despite industry pushes toward standardization, many wireless devices still use proprietary communication protocols, making them incompatible with other manufacturer's products. Partly for this reason, most home systems products are designed with structured wiring in mind. Remember also that prewiring is a permanent upgrade to your home, increasing its value at sale time.

Some of the home systems that require prewiring are security; home theater and entertainment; phones, door-phones and intercoms; PC and internet networks; surveillance cameras; driveway vehicle detection; communicating thermostats; motorized window treatments; entry systems; and irrigation systems. In addition to installing access ports for these systems, you should (remove 'also') decide upon at least two locations for centralized controls, i.e., one in the living room and one in the master bedroom.

The Prewire Planning Guide below is intended only as a general frame of reference, and should be altered to meet your specific requirements. It's a good idea to keep such a document as talking paper for discussions with your contractor. A written specification ensures that all contractors are bidding on the same effort. Discuss your requirements with each contractor and request that they include the details of their work plan in their proposals. Have them take the time to write up a scope-of-work and, if possible, to accurately markup the builder's floor plans. Specify where in each room you want the cable terminations, as well as the type of jacks and wall plates to be used at each termination. All cables running into the home control distribution center should be labeled with a room name and function. Lastly, all cables should be tested for continuity to ensure there are no shorts, opens, mislabels, or incorrect runs.

The prewiring of an average size home entails the running of miles of cables and usually requires several days for two installers to complete. The cost of low voltage prewiring varies, depending in some measure upon the number and length of cable pulls, as well as the number of terminations, but you can expect a range of between $2000 to $7500 for medium size homes, to well above that for larger homes.

Prewire Planning Guide

This plan was developed in accordance with the EIA industry practices identified in the Consumer Electronic Bus standard, which defines how information should travel throughout the home. Compliance with these guidelines insures that the residence will be prewired for all future needs.

A home control center (HCC) should be established in an area adjacent to the electrical service panel in the basement, garage or service area. A 4X6' backboard should be installed to secure the prewired cabling to their appropriate positions in preparation for the installation of the security, cable/satellite distribution, phones, PC/Internet network, audio distribution, and the X10 power line carrier systems signal conditioning equipment.

Two cable runs of RG6 quad shield coaxial cable should be "home run" from each applicable room or area back to the HCC. RG6 cable is used for cable modems, cable/satellite, DVD, & video cameras. The quad shielding on coaxial cable insures a minimum loss of signal quality even if the cables are routed with 90 degree bends.

Two or more cable runs of Category 5E cable should be "home run" from each room planned with a phone, PC, system wall controllers, digital audio controls, thermostats, IR receivers, and cameras back to the HCC. Category 5 enhanced cable consists of 4 pair of twisted wires. The cable is immune to electronic noise and is tested and certified to communication speeds that far exceed the speed of our home networks. We suggest using different color cable for each application to easily identify cables in a bundle.

High quality jacketed 14 and 16 gauge stranded speaker wire should be prewired to each of the rooms and exterior areas of the home identified with speakers and analog volume controls, from the area identified for the home entertainment center.

A category 5E cable should be prewired from the home's primary PC to the HCC for programming and control of the PC based home controller.

The electrical contractor should be instructed to insure that the line, neutral, & switch legs are available at all switch box locations and that only deep switch boxes be used for all planned smart switch and receptacle locations.

Specify that a minimum of 12 receptacle outlets be installed at the HCC & entertainment center areas.

Security, Smoke Detection, & Access System

We recommend that a central station monitored Napco Gemini security & smoke detection system be installed. This is a Hardwired / Wireless multi-tasking centrally monitored system. Monitored contacts should be installed at all first floor and basement exterior doors and windows, as well as glass break detectors, interior motion detectors, heat detectors and smoke detectors. Plain English keypad stations should be located at three locations including the Master BdRm.

The Security system should be integrated into the JDS Stargate system at the HCC for automatic control of safety lighting when the security system is tripped.

A 300' range Street Smart ultra-secure coded remote control system with (2) 4 Button Key Chain remotes can be provided for control of gates, garage doors, interior doors, interior and exterior entrance lighting and the security system from arriving vehicles. The system can be expanded to include exterior motion detectors or driveway vehicle detector probes integrated with Stargate at any time.


Distribution System for Cable, Satellite & Camera Video + PC Internet Network.

A Channel Vision RG6 Coax Cable & Catagory 5 Cable distribution system will be installed at the HCC. This Panel combined with Xantech Infrared components will perform the signal amplification, modulation and distribution of the video signals from of Satellite, Cable programming, and entrance cameras to those rooms planned with a TV or PC. An IR target will be installed in the rooms planned with a TV to enable video source selection and control of Satellite programming, Cable & the Entrance Camera. If a Dual LNB Satellite Dish is utilized this will allow connection of 8 or more Satellite Receivers with individual control. Programmed Universal Remotes such as the SL9000 or PUR08 should be usede for control of TV, A/V, and lighting.

The Cat 5 distribution portion of the panel provides the convenience of a patch panel to distribute voice and data to each room directly from the phone system. A PC LAN 8 node Hub will be included in the panel. High Speed Internet Cable Service or DSL Service can be established on the network to allow all family members to be online simultaneously. Multimedia outlets installed in each room will provide phone service, video, and PC Network connection data where required.

Phone System


A Panasonic Advanced Hybrid Phone System should be installed and integrated at the HCC. The system is expandable to 6 incoming lines and 24 extensions. The system will include Caller ID, a door phone at the front entry, hands free intercom & paging. The available phone handsets include 90OMHZ cordless system phones, corded LCD and non LCD system phones.

The 900MHZ cordless phones offer the convenience of remote and local control of anything electrical from any point in the home or on the grounds.

Great Wireless Phone System alternatives to the Hardwired Panasonic Phone System would be the two incoming line, 10 extension CyberGenie with voice recognition & PC/Internet integration, as well as the two line, 8 extension Siemens 2.4 GHZ Gigaset which is extremely clear, high performance, and attractively priced.


Home Control and Automation System

An X10 PLC network will be created on the house electrical service using Surge Protection, Signal Couplers, Amplifiers, and noise filters as required to ensure rock-solid system operation.

A JDS Stargate, the most comprehensive and best supported integrated home controller available will be installed. Stargate is a Windows based, PC programmable home control system that interconnects the Phones, HVAC, PC,TV, Video, A/V, Lighting and all other home systems, allowing them to communicate with one another for control purposes. In addition to X10 control offered by Stargate, it also includes digital and analog inputs as well as relay contact closures for reliable interfacing to all other home systems. The Power Line Carrier (XlO PLC) network will be established on the electrical service to enable control signaling on the AC power line throughout the residence and exterior lighting and recreation areas. Phone control is integrated into Stargate turning any touch tone phone into a great system controller. Voice response and Caller ID are also integrated in Stargate.

Smart Wall Switches / Modules will be located to insure adequate safety, security, and scene lighting. TouchScreens, and 4 Button Leviton Wall Controllers will be installed to enable automatic and remote control of selected interior and exterior landscape and pool lighting, house audio, and status conditions. This insures that the residence will always present a lived in appearance. The 4 Button Wall Controllers and TouchScreens also provide a means to trigger Scenarios such as Party Time, Away, Movie Time, Good Night, I'm Home etc. that involve several home systems automatically with one button control. Voice Response can be provided for Scenario selections, Guest Arrivals, and Wake-ups etc as desired. An RS232 cable should be routed from the Stargate at the HCC to your primary PC for both control and programming from your PC.

Optional Home Control Sub-Systems:
  1. Dimming Smart Switches can be added to create "one touch" scene lighting, as can additional TouchScreens and Wall Controllers.
  2. An Irrigation Controller, controlled by Stargate can provide convenient integrated lawn & garden automatic irrigation.
  3. Smart bi-directional Thermostats can be installed to offer centralized control based on time of day selections, or remote & local phones and or universal hand held remotes.
  4. Voice recognition software can be installed on the primary PC and can be integrated with the Smart Home phone system to easily trigger scenarios such as Good Night, I�m home, etc.
  5. The system can be expanded with an Infrared Expander to allow "one touch" control of whole house audio systems and home theaters with the same 4 Button Wall Controllers and TouchScreens.
  6. A Pool/Spa Controller can be installed and integrated with Stargate to offer complete system control.

Whole House Audio System

A Niles or equivalent based audio system will be installed at the designated Entertainment Center location. The system can will consist of a AVR Audio/Video/Receiver, Niles Flush Mounted In-Wall and In Ceiling multipurpose speakers and Niles OS10 exterior speakers with Niles RVL6 speaker zone, source selection, and volume controls. This system can be upgraded to include other amplifiers or speaker types as well as by adding room TouchScreens or KeyPads for remote source selection and volume control in place of the proposed room volume controls.

This system shall be integrated at the HCC to permit Stargate Voice Response through the house audio system for audio caller ID, audio reminders, and house status such as the temperature in each room security status, garage door position and more as desired.

What is Home Automation?

Home Automation is automating the control of your home so it works for you, adding convenience and making your life easier, even while saving energy! It can be as basic as dimming lights with a remote control or as complex as setting up a network of items in your home (such as a thermostat, security system, lighting and appliances) that can be programmed using a main controller or even with your cell phone from anywhere in the world! It is now possible, using wireless home automation devices with state-of-the-art Z-Wave technology, to control every aspect of your home environment without installing a single wire.

The definition and capabilities of home automation have changed considerably over the years. Three decades ago, when home automation was rarely thought of by most people, consumers were promised "the home of the future." Home automation was known primarily to X10 enthusiasts and was installed by professionals in luxury homes. Today's technology makes it simpler and more affordable for homeowners to purchase and install their own home control systems, and home automation has finally become a mainstream reality for the average consumer wanting to live in a "smart home". The numerous benefits of today's home automation solutions include: safety and security, energy savings, money savings, convenience and control. It can also improve the daily life of seniors and the disabled by offering voice control and safety items.

Getting Started with Home Automation

Lighting
Controlling your lighting is the easiest place start. There are many affordable starter kits to choose from so you can begin to enjoy home automation in minutes.

Security
Installing a home security system to keep your family safe is simpler than ever with DIY wireless security systems. Many systems combine control with security adding extra convenience.

Climate Control
The temperature of your home can be programmed and controlled remotely with home automation, helping you save energy and money. You can also be alerted when certain temperatures are reached, allowing you to prevent problems from occurring.

Audio/Video
Home automation makes it easy to control your home entertainment system. With the touch of a button on one remote control, your home theater and audio system can be ready to watch a movie with the lights dimmed and the sound set just the way you like it.


Meeting Your Goals

The goal of home automation has always been to make your home more comfortable and secure, as well as to reduce the time spent managing your home by letting your home do the work that you would normally do, in essence making your home work for you. In addition to comfort and security, automating the home is the best way to regulate energy usage and reduce costs for heating, cooling and lighting. Home automation is taking center stage in home technology circles for its ability to let home owners greatly reduce their energy consumption without changing their lifestyle, therefore helping them do their part to slow global warming, as well saving them money. Finally, home automation can be exciting! New innovations make home automation products fun and easy to use for every member of the family. So, take a look at all the products SmartHomeUSA.com has to offer. Feel free to contact our technical support specialists with any questions you may have along the way.

About A10 Devices

A10 products are compatible with X10 products and have a 2 year warranty.

Smart Home Systems is an ACT authorized engineered systems center (ESC). Please contact us for assistance in providing an A10/X10 solution to your requirements. A10 circuitry provides the following performance enhancements:
  1. Signal Strength - A10 increases the signal strength of powerline transmitters form 3 volts peak to peak (VPP) to 6 VPP, effectively doubling the performance of ACT transmitters over competitive products.
  2. Receive Sensitivity - The A10 module also improves the performance of powerline receivers by reducing the required signal level to 25 mV from the 100 mV requirement of competitive receivers.
  3. Two Way Communication - A10 modules provide both receive and transmit capability, providing user confidence in reliable operation.
  4. Signal to Noise Ratio - Current competitive products have an AGC circuit that helps to overcome noisy environments. That AGC circuit requires a 2:1 ratio of signal to noise to operate reliably. The A10 circuit requires only a 1.35:1 ratio.
  5. Noise Threshold - The A10 circuit can operate in powerline environments with as much as 3 volts of noise. Competitive products quit operating if the noise level exceeds 1 volt.

A10 circuitry provides the following new features:
  1. Automatic Acknowledgment (Yes/No) - Allows ACT to enable the device to automatically send its status after reception of a valid command.
  2. Respond to Status Request (Yes/No) - Allows ACT to enable the receiver to respond to a Status Request command, e.g. ON, OFF.
  3. Device address (Standard) - User programmable A10 receivers incorporate the use of external "push button " programming of the unit's address and operating characteristics. Respond to All Units off (Yes/No) - User programmable to set individual devices to respond or ignore an All Units Off command.
  4. Handle Line Collisions (Yes/No) - User programmable to selectively set individual devices to respond or ignore an All Lights Off command.
  5. Handle Line Collisions (Yes/No) - User programmable for collision detection strategy.
  6. Respond to All Lights On (Yes/No) - This feature is similar to the All Lights Off command. User programmable to set an individual device to respond/ignore an All Lights On command.
  7. Polite? (Yes/No) - User programmable to enable the transmitter to wait for 8, 9 or 10 zero crossings of silence on the power line before attempting to transmit its data.
  8. Allow Changing the packet Redundancy (1, 2, 3, or 4) - This feature allows ACT to adjust the packet redundancy transmission.
  9. Enable Priority Queuing (Yes/ No) - Allows ACT to enable the product for TX priority queuing based on the device's number code.
  10. Transmission locations (0�, 30�, 60�, 90�, 120�, 150�) - Allows ACT to set how the device sends data on the power line.

The X-10 Story

The X10 Company

X10 Power Line Carrier (PLC) technology was invented and patented in the late 1970s by an engineering firm named PICO Electronics, headquarted in the UK. The PICO engineers subsequently relocated to Hicksville, New York and continued with their efforts to develop a method of remote control of "record players" using existing electrical power lines to send the control signals. They had already tried and abandoned 9 different experiments and were working on Experiment 10 when they had their breakthrough, hence the term X10, which has been used to describe the signaling technique. The X10 team subsequently named their new home automation company X10 USA, and relocated to Closter, New Jersey.


X10 Technology

The X10 signaling method opened up a whole new world of remotely controlling almost anything plugged into the electrical power line, without adding any control wiring. This was the beginning of affordable home automation. X10 USA has produced millions of X10 automation products and is currently the world�s largest producer of home automation products.

Basically, the X10 power line signaling technique consists of superimposing and transmitting a 120khz coded signal on the 60hz electrical power line. Using X10 transmitting device(s), the signal is sent over the power line to X10 receiving device(s) which are programmed with the same House and Unit code. There are 256 different standard X10 codes available (16 House codes: A through P, and 16 Unit codes: 1-16).

The X10 PLC home automation network consists of:
  • Transmitting devices such as wall mounted, plug-in, phone, & PC controllers.
  • Receiving devices such as light switches, receptacles, & chimes.
  • Transceiver devices that transmit and receive such as the Smart Motion Flood lights, the plug-in devices that receive an RF signal from a remote and re-transmit it on the power line as an X10 signal.
  • X10 PLC Network devices such as passive couplers, coupler repeaters, surge protectors, noise filters, and signal blocks that are installed in or near the electrical service panel. These are required for consistent and reliable whole-house signaling performance. It is possible in very simple systems to obtain satisfactory results without any of the above, however this is a result of lucky circumstances. The use of a coupler repeater and a whole house X10 compatible surge protector when budget permits, is well worth the investment is ongoing system performance.
  • Test Equipment should be used to establish reliable X10 PLC Networks. The objective is to insure that the X10 signal strength is a minimum of 100 mV (2X manufacturers) and that the power line noise does not exceed 20mV, as measured at every location in the residence.
X10 Home Automation Systems

The X10 signaling method opened up a whole new world of remotely controlling almost anything plugged into an electrical power line, without adding expensive & proprietary control wiring. This was the beginning of affordable Home Automation. Over the years X10 USA has produced, licensed, and privately labeled millions of X10 home automation products.

Today, several companies in addition to X10 USA produce X10 compatible Smart Switches & Receptacles for home automation, including SmartLinc, Powerline Carrier Systems (PCS), Leviton, Monterey, and others.

Major product performance improvements over the last few years allow today�s X10 based home automation systems to offer the same features and reliability as proprietary hard-wired products, with far more flexibility, and at a fraction of the cost!

How X10 Works

X10 Theory

X10 communicates between transmitters and receivers by sending and receiving signals over the power line wiring. These signals involve short RF bursts which represent digital information.
X10 transmissions are synchronized to the zero crossing point of the AC power line. The goal should be to transmit as close to the zero crossing point as possible, but certainly within 200 microseconds of the zero crossing point. The PL513 and TW523 provide a 60 Hz square wave with a maximum delay of 100 microseconds from the zero crossing point of the AC power line. The maximum delay between signal envelope input and 120 kHz output bursts is 50 microseconds. Therefore, it should be arranged that outputs to the PL513 and TW523 be within 50 microseconds of this 60 Hz zero crossing reference square wave

A Binary 1 is represented by a 1 millisecond burst of 120 kHz at the zero crossing point, and a Binary 0 by the absence of 120 kHz. The PL513 and TW523 modulate their inputs (from the O.E.M.) with 120 kHz, therefore only the 1 ms "envelope" need be applied to their inputs. These 1 millisecond bursts should equally be transmitted three times to coincide with the zero crossing point of all three phases in a three phase distribution system. Figure 1 shows the timing relationship of these bursts relative to zero crossing.

A complete code transmission encompasses eleven cycles of the power line. The first two cycles represent a Start Code. The next four cycles represent the House Code and the last five cycles represent either the Number Code (1 thru 16) or a Function Code (On, Off, etc.). This complete block, (Start Code, House Code, Key Code) should always be transmitted in groups of 2 with 3 power line cycles between each group of 2 codes. Bright and dim are exceptions to this rule and should be transmitted continuously (at least twice) with no gaps between codes. See Figure 2

Within each block of data, each four or five bit code should be transmitted in true compliment form on alternate half cycles of the power line. I.E. if a 1 millisecond burst of signal is transmitted on one half cycle (binary 1) then no signal should be transmitted on the next cycle, (binary 0). See Figure 3. The Tables in Figure 4 show the binary codes to be transmitted for each House Code and Key Code. The Start Code is always 1110 which is a unique code and is the only code which does not follow the true complimentary relationship on alternate half cycles.

  1. Hail Request is transmitted to see if there are any X10 transmitters within listening range. This allows the O.E.M. to assign a different Housecode if a "Hail Acknowledge" is received.
  2. In a Pre-Set Dim instruction, the D8 bit represents the Most Significant Bit of the level and H1, H2, H4 and H8 bits represent the Least Significant Bits.
  3. The Extended Data code is followed by 8 bit bytes which can represent Analog Data (after A to D conversion). There should be no gaps between the Extended Data code and the actual data, and no gaps between data bytes. The first 8 bit byte can be used to say how many bytes of data will follow. If gaps are left between data bytes, these codes could be received by X10 modules causing erroneous operation.
Extended Code is similar to Extended Data: 8 Bit bytes which follow Extended Code (with no gaps) can represent additional codes. This allows the designer to expand beyond the 256 codes presently available.

NOTE 1. X10 Receiver Modules require a "silence" of at least 3 power cycles between each pair of 11 bit code transmissions (no gaps between each pair). The one exception to this rule is bright and dim codes. These are transmitted continuously with no gaps between each 11 bit dim code or 11 bit bright code. A 3 cycle gap is necessary between different codes, i.e. between bright and dim, or 1 and dim, or on and bright, etc.

NOTE 2. The TW523 Two-Way Power Line Interface cannot receive Extended Code or Extended Data because these codes have no gaps between them. The TW523 can only receive standard "pairs" of 11 bit X10 codes with 3 power line cycle gaps between each pair.

NOTE 3. The TW523 can receive dim and bright codes but the output will represent the first dim or bright code received, followed by every third code received. i.e. the output from the TW523 will not be a continuous stream of dim and bright codes like the codes which are transmitted.

A Square wave representing zero crossing detect is provided by the PL513/TW523 and is within 100 microseconds of the zero crossing point of the AC power line. The output signal envelope from the O.E.M. should be within 50 microseconds of this zero crossing detect. The signal envelope should be 1 ms (-50 microseconds +100 microseconds). See Figure 5

Opto-Coupled 60 Hz reference output (from the PL513/TW523) Transmissions are to be synchronized to the zero crossing point of the AC power line and should be as close to true zero crossing as possible. The PL513 and TW523 are designed to be interfaced to other microprocessor circuitry which outputs X10 codes synchronized to the zero crossing point of the AC power line. It is therefore necessary to provide a zero crossing reference for the O.E.M. microprocessor. It is likely that this microprocessor will have its own "isolated" power supply. It is necessary to maintain this isolation, therefore the trigger circuit normally used in X10 POWERHOUSE controllers is not desirable as this would reference the O.E.M. power supply to the AC power line. It is also not desirable to take the trigger from the secondary side of the power supply transformer as some phase shift is likely to occur. It is therefore necessary to provide an opto-coupled 60 Hz reference.

An opto-coupled 60 Hz square wave is provided at the output of the PL513 and TW523. X10 codes generated by the O.E.M. product are to be synchronized to this zero crossing reference. The X10 code envelope generated by the O.E.M. is applied to the PL513 or TW523 which modulates the envelope with 120 kHz and capacitively couples it to the AC power line.

Opto-Coupled Signal Input (to the PL513/TW523)

The input signal required from the O.E.M. product is the signal "envelope" of the X10 code format, i.e.

High for 1 ms. coincident with zero crossing represents a binary "1" and gates the 120 kHz oscillator through to the output drive circuit thus transmitting 120 kHz onto the AC power line for 1 ms.

Low for 1 ms. coincident with the zero crossing point represents a binary "0" and turns the 120 kHz oscillator/output circuit off for the duration of the 1 ms. input.


Opto-Coupled Signal Output (from the TW523)

The "X10 received" output from the TW523 coincides with the second half of each X10 transmission. This output is the envelope of the bursts of 120 kHz received. Only the envelope corresponding to the first burst of each group of 3 bursts is available at the output of the TW523. See Figures 6, 7 and 8.

X10 Troubleshooting Tips

Some Modules Don't Respond

The most commonly encountered problem with systems which use the existing house wiring to transmit signals is the signals are received by some Receiver modules, but not by others. For example, the Controller controls some lights but not others or controls some lights intermittently. This can happen sometimes when the Module to be controlled is on the opposite phase of the house wiring to the phase which the Controller is connected to.

Phases in household wiring is caused by two different power currents running from the electrical breaker box. (see figure 1). It is, therefore, suggested that the Controller and all Modules to be controlled by that Controller be on the same phase. This can be accomplished by reviewing your breaker panel (see figure 1 - "N" is X-10 units on "B" phase) Where it is not possible, the problem can be solved by fitting a coupling capacitor (also known as a phase coupler or signal bridge) across the two phases of the house wiring to couple the signal from one phase to the other.


Phase coupling

In most cases the signals transmitted by the Controller will control any Module plugged in anywhere in the house. The signal level transmitted is usually in the order or 4 to 5 volts but varies with line impedance and loading (Controller plugged in next to a TV set, for example.) However, the amplitude of signal required to operate a module is only 50 millivolts (0.05 volts) so there is enough tolerance in the transmit/receive ratio to allow for considerable signal attenuation. Most signal attenuation occurs when the signal has to "jump the phases".

Most houses are wired such that 220v (240V) is brought into the breaker panel and then split into 2 phases of 110v ( 120V) each. The signals from the Controller are transmitted onto one phase and have to travel all the way out to the pole transformer to couple across to the other phase. The amplitude of signal on the "other" phase can, therefore, be greatly reduced.

Signals can be "coupled" to the other phase by installing a 0.1 microfarad (0.1�F), 600VDC capacitor across the two phases in the panel, i.e. by connecting the capacitor across any 220V breaker (see Figure 2). This is an acceptable method of determining whether or not a signal bridge or passive coupler will solve the problem but should only be used as a troubleshooting guide. If this does correct your problem install only a UL approved coupler or bridge for maximum safety and signal coupling performance.


If Modules turn on by themselves when they shouldn't:

If it is suspected that Modules have turned on by themselves, the first step should be to change the Housecode on the Controller and all of the Modules. It is possible that a neighbor has the same system or another compatible system. If both houses are on the same pole transformer, it is possible for signals to couple from one house to another. .

If the problem persists, it is possible that the Controller of the Modules have been triggered by a "spike" on the power line. Although this should be a rare occurrence it may help to fit a filter on each phase in the breaker panel, The 6276 (available from Leviton Manufacturing Co.) is a filter which also contains a "spike suppresser" or M.O.V. (Metal Oxide Varistor). See Figure 3. It is suggested that a 6276 be installed on both phases, but if the controller and all the Modules are on the same phase, one 6276 on that phase may be sufficient.

If Modules turn on unpredictably, it is also possible that the modules may have been triggered by a 120V AC power "dip" or "brown out". Lamp Modules and Appliance Modules have a feature called "local control". This feature lets you turn the Module on by turning the power switch on the light or appliance off and then on again. There is a circuit in the Module which detects this change in load and interprets it as a request to turn on. This "local control" circuit by design is very sensitive. Therefore it can sometimes change in the load, and "think" it has been told to turn on. If this problem is suspected, it is recommended that the local control feature be disabled. .


Disabling the local control feature

It is possible to disable the local control feature of the Appliance Module by plugging a "cube tap" into the Module then two items can be plugged into the same Module. Plug a 7 1/2 watt night light into one of the receptacles of the cube tap and the appliance you want to control into the other. When the Module is on, the appliance and night light will be on. When the Module is off, the appliance and the night light will be off. Now, even if you operate the power switch on the appliance, the night light is always "in circuit" so the Appliance Module's local control circuit is disabled.

You can also modify the Appliance Module internally to disable the local control feature. To do this you need to cut the small wire link next to pin 7 on the integrated Circuit (I.C.) in the Appliance Module. If you need help, contact X-10. .

Certain brands of TVs can generate noise and superimpose it on the power line. In most cases, this kind of noise will not cause a problem. If, however, it is determined that the TV is causing a problem (which can be determined by unplugging the TV to see if the problem goes away) it is suggested that the TV be plugged into a filter to isolate it from the AC line. The kind of filter used to protect a TV from interference from heavy applications like power drills is recommended ( Cat.# 15-1111 from radio shack for example). This filter may help to isolate the load (or internal capacitance) of the TV from the AC line if it is found that the TV is attenuating the signals from your Controller(s).


Wireless Intercoms

Intercom systems which use the house wiring to transmit can "block out" X-10 transmissions while the intercom is left in the permanent transmit (talk) mode. Unfortunately there is no simple solution to this problem. If the Controller and all the Modules are on one phase the first thing to try would be to change them all to the other phase. It has been found that the 6276 filter can in some cases attenuate signals from a neighbor's intercom sufficiently enough to allow the Controller's signals to be received by the X-10 Modules. It is NOT possible to have a wireless intercom and a Controller operating in the same house. Figure 3 shows how the 6276 should be connected. .

Some Don'ts
  1. DON'T Use a Wall Switch Module to control a Fluorescent light, a fan, or any kind of appliance. This could cause damage to the Module and/or the light/appliance. (Do - get Appliance modules for appliances.)
  2. DON'T Use a Wall Switch Module to control an outlet unless you are sure no one will plug an appliance ( a vacuum cleaner for example) into the outlet. See above.
  3. DON'T Use a Lamp Module to control a fluorescent light, a fan, or any kind of appliance.
  4. DON'T Use a Lamp Module or a Wall Switch Module to control a lamp or fixture which already has a dimmer on it. (3-way OK if not over 300 watts)
  5. DON'T Use a module to control something which would be dangerous if it were turned on turned on remotely while unattended (e.g. an empty coffee pot, an electric fan with poorly protected blades, or a space heater.)
  6. DON'T use a Wall Switch Module for lamps less than 60 watts.
  7. DON'T leave a wireless intercom or baby monitor in the permanent transmit (or talk) mode. Its transmissions could "block out" X-10 transmissions.
  8. DON'T exceed the specified rating of the modules.

Helpful Products for Elderly Family Members

Advances in modern science, as well as an increased awareness of healthy living, mean that people today are living longer and remaining active into their 70s and beyond. Many elderly people continue to live alone after their spouse has passed on and can remain independent for many years. Often though, the elderly go through a transitional stage while living alone when constant care is not yet necessary, but the chance of something happening to them, like a fall, is increasingly possible as they age.

Falls are the leading cause of injury in persons over the age of 65. A fall could be an indicator of an illness yet undetected, but a full one third of all falls in the home are simply the result of environmental hazards. Irregular floor surfaces, poor lighting and clutter should all be checked and improved to reduce risk. A complete medical evaluation should be given to the person after a fall to check for underlying health conditions that may have caused it. A significant number of those who fall will spend over an hour on the floor before help arrives, and this time is crucial – within 30 to 60 minutes, compression causes the muscle cells to start breaking down. The risk of hypothermia, dehydration and pneumonia all increase the longer a person is left unattended.

Fortunately, there are many devices on the market that can make living alone safer for those in the period between when they start to lose the mobility they once had, but are not yet in need of full-time care. One of the most versatile devices is the Skylink Remote Alert System. In the event of a fall or seizure, pressing the large panic button, worn on the wrist with a comfortable band, will activate the small base unit located in the house. This unit will immediately dial the pre-programmed telephone numbers of relatives, neighbors, and/or friends. When the phone call is received, a pre-programmed voice message up to 40 seconds long will be played, indicating the need for help. The wrist watch panic remote is also water-resistant, so if the emergency occurs while bathing, a call for help can still be made.

Another great product is the X10 PRO Personal Assistance Voice Dialer. This item includes a pendant that can be worn around the neck. When an emergency occurs, pushing the button on the pendant triggers the base unit to sound an alarm and call up to four pre-programmed numbers. The person who answers the call can dial “0” to communicate with the fallen person. The base unit can be connected to other X10 Pro controlled lights, so when the pendant button is pressed, the lights will flash, alerting passers-by that something is wrong.

The challenge in using any product like those described above is making sure the user wears the remote unit all the time. Insist that your loved one wears the remote unit, and verify that they’re wearing it regularly until you’re sure it has become second-nature for them to have it on. Aside from doing the obvious to prevent falls, using a remote alert system can mean the difference between life and death for those who have fallen.

7 Energy Saving Tips

If your idea of conserving energy is lying very, very still on the couch for long periods of time, I hear you. But as the prices of pretty much everything in our lives keep going up (and our salaries don’t), it pays to think about conserving energy in the home, too. Here are 7 easy ways to use, and thus pay for, less energy.


1. Air-dry your clothing in a sun-lit room

Heaters use the most amount of electricity out of any appliance. Your clothes drier houses one of the most powerful heaters in your home (second only to your HVAC system). Why continue to pay for all that energy? Just hang your clothing in a sun-lit room and let the sun do it’s work, for free!


2. Take shorter showers

Studies show that the average teenager spends a whopping 45 minutes in the shower. 45 minutes! Encourage your kids to cut down on their American Idol practice time, and remind your husband that men who shave in the shower are wasting water, too, to the tune of several gallons. Bottom line: If you’re not actively sudsing or rinsing, turn the water off!


3. Unplug your TV and other unused appliances

It’s probably not news to any of you at this point that all plugged-in electronics constantly suck energy even when they’re “turned off.” But recently, the triple threat of flat screen TVs, cable boxes, and DVR devices have officially overtaken refrigerators as the biggest energy drain in American homes. And, while the fridge at least has an excuse for being plugged in all the time, the TV does not. Plug all those devices into a Smart Strip and it will automatically “unplug” everything for you when you’re not watching.


4. Consider replacing older refrigerators

The good news: every year refrigerators are getting more energy efficient, and it’s hard NOT to buy one with an Energy Star rating these days. The downside is that many people, upon upgrading to a better refrigerator, just move the old one to the garage and keep using it. But consider this: There’s a reason you replaced the old one it was too small, it didn’t work well, it was inefficient—so why would you keep it around? Think long and hard about what exactly you so desperately need to keep in deep-freeze storage. Extra ice for parties? Buy an ice chest. That 40 pounds of moose meat you ordered online from your meat-of-the-month club? I have no advice for you, other than reevaluate what’s in your main freezer and check out Energy Star’s Recycle My Old Fridge Campaign web site for information on responsible old-fridge disposal.


5. Really turn off your home computer

75% of the energy used by home computers is used when the owner thinks the computer is turned off. “Sleep” does not equal off. Also consider reading about the Smart Strip, which will automatically turn off your computer peripherals whenever the PC is off (works for TV entertainment centers, too). Easy as pie!


6. Weather-strip your doors

It’s important to have a well sealed house in every season. If you want to keep your heat inside the house this year, make sure that your home’s doors have the proper seals. (Bonus: weather stripping is incredibly cheap—we’re talking $1.50 a roll and as easy to apply as a piece of tape.) And of course, make sure all your windows are closed when the heat is on. What are you trying to do, heat the whole neighborhood?


7. Get your water heater checked and adjusted

Schedule an appointment with your plumber (or ask him to stick around the next time he comes to fix something else) and have him check the settings on your water heater. Although many water heaters are set at 140 degrees Fahrenheit, most homes only need 120 degrees for appliances like dishwashers to function properly. The U.S. Department of Energy estimates that lowering your water temperature by ten degrees will save you 3 to 5% in energy costs (not to mention lower your risk of scalding). Free Money is the best kind!

Save Energy = Save Money

Energy is getting to be very expensive, and all of us are are undoubtedly feeling the crunch. One of the most common places you can begin to save money on energy is in your home. No home is 100% energy efficient, so every small correction will make a difference!

Wasted energy = wasted money.

There are hundreds of inexpensive things you could do to reduce the cost of running your home. Depending on the age and the location of your home, corrections can actually reduce your power consumption by more than half .. and that equates to a LOT of money at the end of the month.

First, you need to audit your home. An audit is a survey that analyzes your home’s structure, appliances and insulation, as well as your family’s lifestyle.

Many utility companies offer free energy audits to their customers, which provide a personalized report detailing specific ways to save energy throughout your home. Ask your utilities if a similar program is available, or just do it yourself, as follows:

Check for things such as:
  • exterior holes and leaks
  • interior drafts and breezes
  • open/leaking fireplace dampers
  • Lack of energystar rated appliances
  • Proper temperature setpoint for water heater/boiler
  • Properly programmed electronic thermostats
  • Dirty furnace filters
  • Proper insulation levels in attic and walls

Then decide where you are wasting the most energy and money. Usually, heating water and the air accounts for the largest part of the energy bill (air conditioning in warmer climates). But this all depends on your house.

Many corrections you can do yourself, but other corrections you may need to hire contractors for. These are some things you’ll need to deal with:


Insulation and Air leaks

You will definitely want to spend time checking for this if your home was built more than 20 years ago. Many homes built then are not well insulated. Most of the heat in your house escapes through holes in the floors, walls and ceiling, and through plumbing penetrations and electrical outlets. Sealing cracks and holes with flexible silicone, and installing foam gaskets under outlet plates are great places to start. Also check for deteriorated insulation in the attic, and replace or add as necessary!


Heating and Cooling

Heating and cooling water and air takes an incredible amount of energy. Maintaining the correct temperature for your home is easier if you request less of a difference. For this reason, set your thermostat between 65-70F in winter and 73-77F in summer. And make sure you make the most of the energy you ARE using by insulating the HVAC and hot water system properly, taking short showers instead of baths, and turning down the thermostat when you aren’t home (Our telephone controller makes this easy!).


Windows

In older houses, single-pane windows are common, and a lot of heat can escape through them. Replace any old inefficient windows with new ones that can trap heat. Or search the internet for “window coverings” or “window sealers”. You can also install an automatic blind controller to automatically let sun in during the day and keep cold out at night.

Smart Home Redefined

In 1978 a group of engineers from the UK was working for a US company to develop a method for homeowners to change records on a record player from any room in the house. Their objective was to use plug-in products that would enable a homeowner to send a control signal from any room in the house over the home’s existing electrical power lines to change records.

A few years later, on their tenth experimental approach, they succeeded, and the company was named X10. Their efforts led the way to an affordable method of controlling electrical appliances, computer equipment, security systems, heating and air conditioning and lighting in the home. Prior to the X10 development, only homeowners with unlimited resources could afford to have professionals install proprietary wiring and products to automate the operation of their home systems. We consider the release of inexpensive DIY X10 products the birth of do-it-yourself home automation.

Today, home energy management has eclipsed all other comfort and convenience reasons for automating a home. The term “Smart Home” now signifies one that implements home automation technologies to increase energy efficiency, reduce its carbon footprint, and lessen the environmental impact created by the individuals living in that home. Fortunately there are currently many manufacturers developing and producing DIY products that allow homeowners to manage their home systems with preprogrammed time schedules and events which help conserve energy and save money.